2nd Gen Volvo Power Steering Pump Installation for FC

Work in Progress

The use of electric power steering in older cars has become a lot more prominent. There are a ton of options and people within the community have used a variation of pumps ranging from the Mazda 3, MR2, and Volvo Pump. The Volvo pump is a very popular option as it was used in a variety of Volvo cars from 2004-2014. Especially in the world of drifting (the route I've been following) these old school pulley driven pumps are getting tired, broken, and worn out. You can no longer find these pumps brand new or remanufactured, especially the lines. I compiled a list of the required parts to get this job done.

IMPORTANT: It is important to note that the Volvo electric power steering pump pulls quite some amps so if you're running a stock S4/S5 alternator, I would advise you upgrade to the FD 100Amp alternator or anything larger especially if you're running Electric Fans.

Parts List​

M12x1.25 to 6AN Adapter1AmazonUsed to adapt the feed port on the rack to 6ANNo
M16x1.5 to 6AN Adapter (O-Ring)2AmazonDesignated to adapt the pump to 6AN and the rackNo
6AN 90 Degree Fitting2AmazonUsed at the power steering rackNo
6AN Straight Fitting1AmazonUsed directly into the pumpNo
10AWG Inline Fuse Holder1AmazonSupplying constant power to the pump with a 40amp inline fuseNo
6AN Line1AmazonUsed for both the feed and return lines.No
Mishimoto Power Steering Cooler1AmazonCan help avoid air pockets in the power steering systemYes
M12x1.25 Plug1AmazonUsed to block off the bottom port originally designed for the "balance" system.No
Connector Kit1eBayUsed in the event you don't retrieve the pump with the designated connectors.Yes

Important you might want to know...​

  • It is not recommended running a standard 6AN hose for the high-pressure line (feed), you will ideally want to get a proper crimped/PTFE rated line made by a hydrologic shop instead. Many people have gotten away with running the traditional standard 6AN hose, but it is not recommended.
  • It is highly recommended that you use 8AWG wire
  • You must make a custom bracket, this will on vary based on preference, you should figure out where you want to mount the pump before sizing up your lines.
  • VERY IMPORTANT: It is important to note that in my case all three ports on the rack were M16x1.5 but in some cases based on various cars the thread size go as the following you will be able to visually tell by the hole sizes:
    • Top (Low Pressure / Return): M16x1.5
    • Middle (High Pressure / Feed): M12x.1.25
    • Bottom (Block Off Bolt): M12x.1.25
  • As for 2-Port Racks (Typically found on Series 5 Cars, 17.4:1 Ratio)
    • Top (Low Pressure / Return): M16x1.5
    • Bottom (High Pressure / Feed): M14x.1.5

Visual Diagram​



Wiring Stuff​

  • Red: Constant Power (40Amp Fused)
  • Black: Ground
  • Gray/Blue: Switch 12V provided from a switch to turn on the pump, you can have it manually attached to a switch or via any 12V source that is active when the ignition is on. It is a matter of preference



  • Volvo Pump.jpg
    Volvo Pump.jpg
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Some small updates, I came across the old power steering lines in my garage and decided to reverse engineer the sizes with some deep searching online (shout out to the LS swap guys for providing this info on No Rotors). I was able to obtain the sizes of the banjos, hard-line ends, and tube nut sizes. This is crucial as I want to have secure PTFE lines all around made all around. I also started developing a mounting solution for the pump too. As for the lines I'll go to the hydraulic shop tomorrow and see if they can have the following made:

High-Pressure Line

M16x1.5 (3/8”) Tube Nut to 6AN 90 Degree Female Fitting (using a high-pressure hose)
Length: TBD varying on mounting location

Low-Pressure Line

M16x1.5 fitting to 6AN Hose with no fitting attached (using a high-pressure hose)
Length: TBD varying on mounting location


OEM Feed Line (to the Left) & Balance/Metering Port designated to be blocked off (to the right)